car audio help

[locked&loaded]

I just bought a cd deck for my car, it says 50 watts x 4 high power, they are 4 ohms. (Im not looking for giant speakers that will shake my car, just ones that i can turn up when all my windows are down on the freeway) So whats the highest watts i can go for speakers, i went to the store and they all seem to be like 150 watts or pretty high. By the way what are good cheap brands and everything. thanks, any and all help is appreciated.

 

[tomson75]

What size stock speakers does you're car run. What type of car? What type of music do you generally listen to?

These things help when picking speakers. Let us know, and we can help you more.

 

[locked&loaded]

What size stock speakers does you're car run. What type of car? What type of music do you generally listen to?

These things help when picking speakers. Let us know, and we can help you more.

thanks, and what i meant to say is my car runs 4 ohms stock, not the cd deck is 4 ohms. I own a toyota corolla, i listen to indy rock. Bands like oasis, beck, blur, the arctic monkeys. I dont listen to stuff that has alot of base, but it would be nice. I dont listen to much rap.

 

[tomson75]

thanks, and what i meant to say is my car runs 4 ohms stock, not the cd deck is 4 ohms. I own a toyota corolla, i listen to indy rock. Bands like oasis, beck, blur, the arctic monkeys. I dont listen to stuff that has alot of base, but it would be nice. I dont listen to much rap.

Some things to consider:

1. I am by no means an expert, and I haven't purchased car stereo stuff in like five years.

2. I'm biased towards JL audio and Boston Acoustics, which you might not want to spend the dough for.

3.You're after-market receiver will allow you much greater flexibility in choosing speakers. The higher output will allow a greater range of sensitivity levels.

4. You generally get what you pay for when shopping for car audio equipment.


I generally listen to a wide range of music, but moreso punk, indie, rock stuff....so you and I would generally prefer a 'tighter' bass so to speak. Round speakers (5.5", 6.5") are usually easier to get tight bass from as opposed to 6"x9"'s, or any oval cone speakers. Round speakers tend to last longer too.

Polk and Infinity have always made some quality low/mid end speakers (around $55-85.00), but there are several high end companies that make speakers intended to directly compete with them, for only a few bucks more.

Crutchfield happens to be located in my town, but they also have a very good online store, complete with some decent tutorials (under the 'learn' section). These can be very helpful, along with the easy matching they provide to your car's year, make, and model.

http://www.crutchfield.com

 

[locked&loaded]

Some things to consider:

1. I am by no means an expert, and I haven't purchased car stereo stuff in like five years.

2. I'm biased towards JL audio and Boston Acoustics, which you might not want to spend the dough for.

3.You're after-market receiver will allow you much greater flexibility in choosing speakers. The higher output will allow a greater range of sensitivity levels.

4. You generally get what you pay for when shopping for car audio equipment.


I generally listen to a wide range of music, but moreso punk, indie, rock stuff....so you and I would generally prefer a 'tighter' bass so to speak. Round speakers (5.5", 6.5") are usually easier to get tight bass from as opposed to 6"x9"'s, or any oval cone speakers. Round speakers tend to last longer too.

Polk and Infinity have always made some quality low/mid end speakers (around $55-85.00), but there are several high end companies that make speakers intended to directly compete with them, for only a few bucks more.

Crutchfield happens to be located in my town, but they also have a very good online store, complete with some decent tutorials (under the 'learn' section). These can be very helpful, along with the easy matching they provide to your car's year, make, and model.

http://www.crutchfield.com

whatever you know, its more than me. So i guess one of my main questions is by my cd deck saying 50 watts, well im confused. most speakers seem way higher than 50 watts, what is the highest amount of watts i can play on my cd deck without them being distorted, and you are correct about me not wanting to pay top dollar.

also i suppose buying just back speakers would be bad, unless i just put all my output to the back speakers, because if i dont ill blow out the front stock speakers. am i correct?

ha one more thing, my stock speakers are 30 watts, on the back deck (4 ohms) i assume the front are the same. Is thirty watts generally small, they just dont seem enough for me, i mean im not looking to blow the skirts off girls.

 

[tomson75]

whatever you know, its more than me. So i guess one of my main questions is by my cd deck saying 50 watts, well im confused. most speakers seem way higher than 50 watts, what is the highest amount of watts i can play on my cd deck without them being distorted, and you are correct about me not wanting to pay top dollar.

also i suppose buying just back speakers would be bad, unless i just put all my output to the back speakers, because if i dont ill blow out the front stock speakers. am i correct?

ha one more thing, my stock speakers are 30 watts, on the back deck (4 ohms) i assume the front are the same. Is thirty watts generally small, they just dont seem enough for me, i mean im not looking to blow the skirts off girls.

The wattage rating for those speakers is at 150 watts maximum output at 4 ohms...it's not necessarily the rating throughout the speaker's full range. Many of the lower/mid end companies use the rating at 4 ohms to make their product compare favorably to other companies that rate their product at 6 or 8 ohms. Basically, those ratings are dependent on several factors, and its difficult to discern a good speaker from a better speaker unless you're well versed on the intricacies of those ratings. I'm not.

You will get a much better sound out of damn near every aftermarket speaker than you will from your stock ones, though, and matching speakers to a compatible rated receiver isn't mandatory...they'll still be an upgrade.

The stock paper cones in most cars won't last long when matched with higher output receivers, but unless they're already pretty shot, they shouldn't 'blow' from a 50w head unit. You could replace the rears, then replace the fronts when they eventually start to give. Although you'll be paying for the extra installation fees if you aren't intending to install them yourself.

Go to the Crutchfield site and use the 'outfit my car' section, it will give you multiple examples of compatible speakers, and you'll have a better idea of what you're looking at.

 

[locked&loaded]

The wattage rating for those speakers is at 150 watts maximum output at 4 ohms...it's not necessarily the rating throughout the speaker's full range. Many of the lower/mid end companies use the rating at 4 ohms to make their product compare favorably to other companies that rate their product at 6 or 8 ohms. Basically, those ratings are dependent on several factors, and its difficult to discern a good speaker from a better speaker unless you're well versed on the intricacies of those ratings. I'm not.

You will get a much better sound out of damn near every aftermarket speaker than you will from your stock ones, though, and matching speakers to a compatible rated receiver isn't mandatory...they'll still be an upgrade.

The stock paper cones in most cars won't last long when matched with higher output receivers, but unless they're already pretty shot, they shouldn't 'blow' from a 50w head unit. You could replace the rears, then replace the fronts when they eventually start to give. Although you'll be paying for the extra installation fees if you aren't intending to install them yourself.

Go to the Crutchfield site and use the 'outfit my car' section, it will give you multiple examples of compatible speakers, and you'll have a better idea of what you're looking at.

thanks i appreciate everything youve done for me, ill check out crutchfield and get back to you.

 

[locked&loaded]

are there any brands you would shy away from?

 

[the kid 05]

go get some rockford fostgates they are great for your indy rock stuff, your cars rear deck is probably 6x9 speakers your dash *may* have spears and if they are they are 3.5x2x1.5

 

[tomson75]

are there any brands you would shy away from?

I've never really messed with too many low/mid level brands other than Pioneer, Infinity, and Polk. All three are very good for the money. I can't really offer an opinion on any of the others.

Pioneer seems to be one of the safer bets.

Rockford subs are good if you want to get cheap subs.

 

[the kid 05]

I've never really messed with too many low/mid level brands other than Pioneer, Infinity, and Polk. All three are very good for the money. I can't really offer an opinion on any of the others.

Pioneer seems to be one of the safer bets.

Rockford subs are good if you want to get cheap subs.

I can vouch for Rockford's subs n speakers, my moms had her rockfords for going on 10 years and still hit strong. Mine were hitting strong after 3 years then i upgraded to Audiobahn and have blown subs 2x and blew there amp

 

[big dog cowboy]

i mean im not looking to blow the skirts off girls.

You need to re-examine your priorities immediately.

 

[locked&loaded]

I can vouch for Rockford's subs n speakers, my moms had her rockfords for going on 10 years and still hit strong. Mine were hitting strong after 3 years then i upgraded to Audiobahn and have blown subs 2x and blew there amp

I dont need a subwoofer, my friends have those giant things in the back of their car and they almost give me headaches, you cant hear the words just the base. Ill check out the rockfords

 

[locked&loaded]

I've never really messed with too many low/mid level brands other than Pioneer, Infinity, and Polk. All three are very good for the money. I can't really offer an opinion on any of the others.

Pioneer seems to be one of the safer bets.

Rockford subs are good if you want to get cheap subs.

i know you said you liked boston acoustics and jl audio, i was looking at boston acoustics, and like i said im not looking to spend alot of money. There lowest priced speakers only go 2-35 watts RMS power range (whatever that means) but what i take from that is its only 5 watts higher than the speakers i have right now. It would be louder but not that much louder, right?

 

[the kid 05]

I dont need a subwoofer, my friends have those giant things in the back of their car and they almost give me headaches, you cant hear the words just the base. Ill check out the rockfords

her speakers work fine too. When you just hear base and no vocals or instruments it means they have to tune the head unit which most people dont do. Mine shakes my moms car and sets off her alarm and shakes the windows on the house and you can hear the words crisp and clear

 

[locked&loaded]

edit, i just ripped my speakers out and they are 15 watt, no wonder. I have a question, my dad has old 8 ohm 30 watts. My car is set for 4 ohms, whats gonna happen if i plug those in?

 

[trickblue]

edit, i just ripped my speakers out and they are 15 watt, no wonder. I have a question, my dad has old 8 ohm 30 watts. My car is set for 4 ohms, whats gonna happen if i plug those in?

Don't get confused... the ohm rating is impedance. Your 8 ohm speakers will work fine. If you connect two 8 ohm speakers together in a parallel they become a 4 ohm load. Two 4 ohm speakers wired in a parallel present a load of 2 ohm.

In this case, 4 ohms is a larger load than 8 ohm and 2 ohm larger than 4 ohm. You will be fine wiring in 8 ohm speakers to this unit. Just wire them up normally. Your power rating will be a little less but it won't hurt a thing...