Need home A/C advice

I think you were heating the inside too much with your natural gas and your AC could not overtake it. :p;)
:lmao::lmao2::lmao:

Not much exterior maintenance other that removing visual debris and hitting the evaporator coils with a hose nozzle in the spring,that's what my A.C. guy told me,,and protect the ductwork (I've got 12" flex) from oddly enough, CATS in the crawl space.
 
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Appreciate all the responses..serious and humor filled haha. I'm having it looked at by the company who installed it on Thursday and it's under warranty 10 years parts and 5 years labor so they told me I wouldn't have to pay anything for them to come out most likely. Hopefully it's nothing major and I did turn the system off until then. Ceiling fans to the rescue!

Also had it set to 68 and at night it was cooler than that outside. Days are only getting to 75 around here currently.
 
Also, how hot is it outside and what is your thermostat set to?

I know when it's in the 90's here with humidity mine struggles to past 75.

It shouldn't. Most units will cool fine until around 120* outside temps. That's when they give out on ability to heat transfer.
 
It shouldn't. Most units will cool fine until around 120* outside temps. That's when they give out on ability to heat transfer.
Most residential air conditioning units these days are rated to maintain around 20 degrees below room temperature (not outside temperature). Of course they can cool beyond that, but they start losing their effectiveness to maintain temperature after that point.
 
Pretty sure it was @FuzzyLumpkins who mentioned that was his line of work as his day gig,,,before he got smart(lol)

My family owns an HVAC co. I worked for them before I went back to school.

Regardless if your AC is running all day and never Cooling it can be a multiple of things. Of course it could be low on freon but if it is that new it is unlikely that it would leak the charge that quickly and not set off a pressure switch.

A good way to check to see how it is on freon that does not involve sticking a thermometer into vents and returns is to check at the outside unit. There are two copper lines coming out of the condenser and that is what the freon travels through. The larger of the two lines should be cold.

If it is not very cold then the most likely culprit is Freon or a valve.

An alternate possibility and what I often see in today's day and age of service technician is that they sell you a unit that does not fit the house. The basic rule of thumb is one ton for every 500 square feet of house. What you'll see is a 3 ton unit on a 2500 square foot house. There is just not enough airflow in order to cool that's size of home.

You can check that on the outside unit if the data plate is on the exterior of the unit. I do not advise you taking a hex wrench and trying to open up the unit yourself if you do not know what you are doing.

Either way you're going to need to get a technician out to your house. Either to upgrade the unit to the size of the house which is if the case sucks or alternately to put more freon in the unit or make a repair.
 
Most residential air conditioning units these days are rated to maintain around 20 degrees below room temperature (not outside temperature). Of course they can cool beyond that, but they start losing their effectiveness to maintain temperature after that point.

What he is talking about is the heat transfer over the condenser(outdoor) coil. Just like the evaporator(indoor) coil transfers heat into the coil using the internal airflow, the condenser fan transfers heat to the air by running it through the coil. When it is that hot it screws up the expansion equilibrium which jacks with the thermodynamics.

It's set up to be liquid on one side and gas on the other and utilize the supercooling/heating you get from the state change. If it starts to boil before the evaporator you lose efficiency.
 
Most residential air conditioning units these days are rated to maintain around 20 degrees below room temperature (not outside temperature). Of course they can cool beyond that, but they start losing their effectiveness to maintain temperature after that point.

That's return differential.

I am talking about heat transfer at the condenser with outside air.
 
What he is talking about is the heat transfer over the condenser(outdoor) coil. Just like the evaporator(indoor) coil transfers heat into the coil using the internal airflow, the condenser fan transfers heat to the air by running it through the coil. When it is that hot it screws up the expansion equilibrium which jacks with the thermodynamics.

It's set up to be liquid on one side and gas on the other and utilize the supercooling/heating you get from the state change. If it starts to boil before the evaporator you lose efficiency.

Nailed it. Thanks bro.
 
Home inspection reports, going into when the house wa built, calling previous seems like overkill.


An A/C professional should have you charged and cool rather quickly,
 
Not completely. It can be something as simple as the outside fan burned up.

If thats the case, rig it till you can get it fixed.

20228905_1512616375472064_7502285741005244303_n.jpg
...that's hilarious!...does it actually work...lol...I guess you turn the fan on and off manually eh!?...
 
...you can probably get a free AC/ checkup...jus' sayin'
 
Could be
Just bought my first home and the previous owner replaced the a/c unit in 2015. Few weeks in and I noticed the past couple days the a/c runs pretty much all day yet never cools to the temperature on the thermostat. Even at night when the temperature outside is lower than what I have it set to inside. Any ideas on what the issue might be? Thanks in advance.[/



Could be you need Freon
 

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